Garden Profile

Overview

Location: Vancouver, WA — USDA Zone 8b
Climate pattern: Wet Oct–April, dry June–September. Clay-heavy native soil.
Watering method: Hand watering with hose shower attachment (overhead — see strawberry notes)

Sugar Snap Peas

Setup: Vertical trellis net on west-facing fence
Planted: Early June 2026

Current Season Reality (June 2026)

West-facing fence means afternoon sun and heat — the toughest exposure for a cool-season crop. Planted in early June, these will likely produce a compressed harvest window through late June/early July, then bolt when temps consistently hit the mid-70s–80s. Expect 4–6 weeks of production rather than the typical 8–10.

Care Now

• Harvest pods aggressively and early — once the pod is plump and round, pick it. Leaving pods on the vine signals the plant to stop flowering.
• Water in the early morning to keep roots cooler through afternoon heat.
• Check for powdery mildew (white coating on leaves) — common on peas in PNW humidity. Remove affected leaves; increase airflow if vines are dense.
• Watch for aphids clustering at new growth tips; knock off with water or use insecticidal soap.

When They’re Done

Don’t pull them out immediately — let the plants set a few seed pods if you want to save seeds. Then pull and compost.

Fall Planting (Better Strategy)

• Plant date: Late August (aim for Aug 20–Sept 1)
• Why it works: Soil cools, days shorten — exactly what peas want
• Variety tip: Choose fast-maturing types (50–60 days) like Sugar Ann or Oregon Sugar Pod for fall
• Sow seeds in the evening, water the trench first to cool the soil before dropping seeds

Lavender

Setup: In-ground, amended soil pocket
Variety: Unknown

Zone 8b Context

English lavender (Lavandula angustifolia) is the right choice for Vancouver. Zone 8b temperatures are fine — the risk is wet clay soil causing root rot during the October–March rainy season, often silently: the plant looks healthy all summer then collapses the following spring.

Care Calendar

• Now (June–July): Full sun, minimal watering — lavender is drought tolerant once established. Water deeply every 10–14 days max unless there’s a dry heat event.
• After bloom (July–August): Prune spent flower stems back by 1/3, cutting into green wood only. Never cut into bare/brown woody stems.
• September: Light shaping only. Stop 4–6 weeks before first frost.
• October onward: Stop watering entirely. The rainy season takes over. This is critical — fall/winter irrigation + clay drainage = root rot.
• Winter: Do not prune. Leave the plant alone.
• March–April: Remove any winter-damaged tips once you see new green growth emerging.

Ongoing Risk: Drainage

Even with amended soil in the planting pocket, surrounding clay can hold water around the root zone in winter. If a plant dies back suddenly in spring, root rot from winter saturation is the most likely cause. Consider top-dressing the base with a thin layer of gravel to shed water away from the crown.

Rosemary

Setup: In-ground, amended soil pocket
Variety: Unknown

Zone 8b Context

Rosemary is a perennial in Zone 8b — should survive winters without special treatment in most years. The threat is the PNW freeze-thaw cycle: a hard November rain followed by a December freeze, then January warm-up, then freeze again. That pattern stresses woody roots more than sustained cold.

Care Calendar

• Now (June–September): Drought tolerant. Water every 2 weeks or less once established. Light pruning for shape is fine anytime — trim new growth, never old wood.
• Harvest: Clip stems freely throughout the season. Harvesting is essentially pruning — it keeps the plant shaped.
• October: Stop watering. Let the plant go into dormancy on its own.
• Winter: In a severe freeze event (sustained temps below 20°F), a frost blanket helps. Vancouver rarely hits this but it happens every few years.
• Spring: Assess winter damage. Cut dead tips back to live wood once you see green growth.

Ongoing Notes

• Good drainage is non-negotiable — same clay risk as lavender.
• If the plant is in a low spot that pools water after heavy rain, mound the soil slightly or add coarse gravel around the base.

Blueberries

Setup: Two bushes, different varieties (names unknown), full sun
Ages: One 3-year-old, one 2-year-old
Soil: Native rocky soil excavated, replaced with good amended soil in the root zone; not pH tested

Diagnosis: Why They’re Not Producing Well

Three overlapping causes, in order of impact:

1. Soil pH — almost certainly the main problem. Blueberries require pH 4.5–5.5. Vancouver native soil typically runs 6.0–7.0+. Even with a fresh good-soil pocket, that surrounding soil leaches alkalinity back into the root zone over time. Fish fertilizer helps slightly (it’s mildly acidic) but won’t correct a pH problem on its own. This needs to be measured and addressed directly.

2. Age. The 3-year-old is just entering productive age; the 2-year-old is still establishing. Don’t expect full production from either for another 1–2 seasons. The 3-year-old should be showing more flowers/fruit this year if pH is corrected.

3. Variety cross-pollination. You have two different varieties — this is correct and working in your favor. Native bees do the work; as long as they bloom around the same time and bees can reach both, this is not the issue.

Immediate Action: Soil pH Test

Get a simple pH meter ($15–20 at any garden center or Amazon) or a soil test kit. Test the soil at the base of each bush, 4–6 inches deep. This one number tells you exactly what to do next.

If pH is above 5.5 (very likely):

• Apply elemental sulfur (not lime, not iron sulfate) — it’s the most reliable long-term acidifier
• Rate: ~0.75 lbs per 100 sq ft for loamy soil; work it into the top few inches
• Sulfur takes 3–6 months to act; apply now and retest in fall
• Annual maintenance: a light application each spring keeps pH stable
• Switch from fish fertilizer to an acid-specific fertilizer: Holly-tone, Espoma Berry-tone, or any azalea/rhododendron fertilizer. These are formulated for acid-loving plants and won’t fight your pH work.

If pH is already 4.5–5.5:

• Age is the primary constraint; wait it out and continue current care
• Verify full sun isn’t being blocked by anything as fence/plants mature

Ongoing Care

• Fertilize once in early spring (March) with acid fertilizer, before buds break
• Do not fertilize after July — you don’t want to push new growth before winter
• Water deeply but infrequently during the dry summer — 1–2 inches per week; blueberries have shallow roots and dry out faster than they look
• Mulch with wood chips or pine bark to retain moisture and add slight acidity as it breaks down
• Birds become a serious problem once berries color up — netting the bushes is the most effective protection

Strawberries

Setup: Separate raised bed, continuous-production (everbearing or day-neutral) variety
Age: Planted over 3 years, no new plants added in 2026
Current state: Thriving, cleared and trimmed this spring, berries going into mesh bags early

What You’re Doing Right

• Clearing dead/overgrown material this spring was the right call — reduces slug habitat and botrytis risk
• Mesh bags early (before full color) is good bird defense
• Multi-year staggered planting means mixed plant ages, which spreads production

Overhead Watering Note

Hand watering from above wets the foliage and fruit, which increases botrytis (gray mold) risk — the most damaging strawberry disease in the PNW. It turns berries gray and mushy, especially in cool wet spring weather.

• Water at the base of the plant, not the foliage, whenever possible
• Water in morning so any splash on leaves dries before evening
• Remove any gray/moldy berries immediately — they spread spores to adjacent fruit

Slugs (Major PNW Risk)

The wet climate makes slugs endemic. They primarily attack ripe and near-ripe fruit, especially overnight.

• Late August – September: The most important time to bait — killing egg-laying adults now prevents next year’s population
• Remove slug habitat: boards, rocks, debris piles near the bed
• Iron phosphate slug bait (Sluggo) is safe around edible plants and pets
• Beer traps work for spot control

Pest/Disease Calendar

• April–June: Watch for botrytis on flowers and early fruit; remove affected material fast
• June–September: Harvest frequently — overripe fruit on the plant is a disease and pest magnet
• August–September: Slug bait application
• October: After final harvest, cut foliage back, clear debris, and mulch lightly for winter

Renovation Timing

Your oldest plants are now 3 years old. Day-neutral and everbearing strawberries are generally best replaced after year 2–3, as production and fruit size decline. Options:

• This fall or next spring: Pull the oldest plants (year 3) and replace with new runners or purchased crowns
• If plants are still producing well, you can wait one more season — judge by whether this year’s berries are noticeably smaller than previous years
• Pot up vigorous runners from your best plants to use as replacements (if your variety sends runners)

Seasonal Overview

Last updated: June 2026